Beaufort - Hammock Bay - Wrightsville - Holden Beach 5-8 Jan

  

   We've made this trip down the ICW so many times that there aren't many sites that warrant breaking out the camera and opening the enclosure to get a good photo. We did see this unusual home on the way down from Beaufort.

   We had any easy transit to the anchorage at Hammock Bay then on to anchoring at Wrightsville. The weather has been sunny so it is warm during the day inside the cockpit enclosure. Nights are cold jumping into the bed but it gets warm after awhile. Was a bit breezy in the Wrightsville anchorage but we had enough protection from the shore to keep the waves down so no problems.

   

   After Wrightsville Beach, the ICW passes through Snow's Cut and into the Cape Fear River where you can encounter merchant ships passing up and down the river heading to/from Wilmington. We had the current against us but a stiff northerly wind helping us sail down the river, staying out of the main shipping channel and away from these big guys.

   Other guys to watch out for are the ferries on the Cape Fear River that shuttle across the river. This guy was planning to pass us and cut in front to enter the ferry dock but he decided at the last minute he wouldn't make it without hindering us (we were sailing at the time) so he hit the brakes and then passed behind us.  Just to be nice, I started the engine and sped up a bit to clear the harbor entrance quicker. 

   Safe arrival at the Holden Beach city dock. We stayed here a couple days visiting my brother who has a house at Holden Beach, and my sister who was staying in Myrtle Beach for a couple months getting out of the freezing winter temperatures in Texas.

   It was a good time to stop at a marina and plug in to shore power so we had heat plus the electric blanket as the night temperatures were getting down into the 30s.

   Sue got to walk the beach a couple days looking for shells. Holden Beach usually has a good selection of interesting shells but this visit all we saw was a variety of clam shells. Beach sunsets are always an inspirational view and this visit was no different. But it was soon time to push on further south for warmer weathers.

New Bern to Beaufort - 4 Jan

    We're all loaded up and ready to push off for warmer climes. Unfortunately the weather isnt cooperating so we are still sitting in New Bern waiting for a storm front to blow through on 3 Jan. Looks like it will be departure on the 4th.

   Finally underway and heading south. A bit bundled up for the chilly morning but the sun is out and the cockpit will start warming up as the sun shines in. We've got the mainsail up but there is not much wind so we're motoring down the Neuse River on smooth waters.

   After an uneventful transit down the Neuse and Adams Creek we are anchored in Beaufort off the US Coast Guard Station, our frequent anchoring spot behind the sand dunes protecting us from the ocean. 

   Temperature is in the high 40s, so not too bad and we will forego running the generator for heat. Will be sleeping in some warm clothes tonight. If it gets much colder we will have to crank up the generator so we can turn on the electric blanket.

Bahamas 2022 Cruise Here We Come (Hopefully) - Dec 31

   The rental car is loaded to the gills and Rivah will ride at Sue's feet for the 3hr drive down to New Bern from Yorktown but, we got it all loaded up and are ready to start the Bahamas 2022 Cruise. Next time we'll plan a trip down to New Bern in our van a few days before departure. You forget how many "last minute" items you have to load up before departing on a 4 month cruise.

  One of the final departure tasks is to clean and lubricate the anemometer at the top of the mast. Sue is the designated ascender, decked out  here with her bosun seat for lifting, safety harness for a second safety line, and showing her new phone tether she received for Xmas.

   Up at the top giving the instruments and genoa swivel a good lubricating and the light housing checked. All is working properly now.  Great to have a First Mate that can take care of these chores.

   The weather didn't look good for a departure before the 1st, with a major storm forecasted for 3 Jan, so we decided to stay the weekend over the 1st in New Bern. They had a nice New Year's celebration downtown with a "dropping of the Bear" display. This small bear was dropped at 9pm for the children and a larger bear from the clock tower at true midnight. We celebrated the 9pm dropping which is also known as "Cruiser's Midnight" for us sailors that have to conserve our batteries and turn the lights off at 9pm. (Actually, this classic cruiser convention is becoming obsolete as we all switch to LED lights which use almost no amperage. LED lights are one of the greatest inventions going for cruisers along with the new powerful and efficient solar panels.)

   On Jan 4th, it was time to get underway on a sunny and brisk 30 degree morning, heading as quick as we can southward towards warmer weather and the clear, blue waters of the Bahamas.

New Bern 1-4 Nov

 

   We arrived at the New Bern Grand Marina on the 1st after fueling up at the Galley Store marina just around the corner. We like visiting and leaving the boat in New Bern with its well protected harbor right downtown, close to all the amenities of New Bern. Unfortunately, the marina no longer enjoys the amenities of the adjacent hotel. Used to be we could use the facilities of the Sheraton Hotel but that arrangement no longer exists with the new Double Tree that bought the hotel.

   We had a nice sail up the Neuse River from Oriental to New Bern and were able to turn off the engine for most of the 4 hour trip. The winds were light but with our nice clean bottom after hauling out in September, we were able to make 4-5kts sailing up the river. After months of maintenance it was nice to be a sailboat again.

      The great part of stopping in New Bern is the marina is right along the downtown waterfront and New Bern is a large enough town to have lots to offer. We found a woodfired pizza restaurant nestled in the old Victorian residences and had some terrific pizzas. Rivah was very attentive but she doesnt get any treats from the table so was disappointed.

   I actually had the self-control to leave one large piece uneaten and had it for dinner the next day. That might be a first for me.

   Much of downtown New Bern is 1850 - 1915 homes, most of which are being maintained in very good condition, relatively unusual for most towns in America. This was Sue's favorite, although it actually is a Chapel that has been converted into a home. 

   One thing you don't see every day in most American towns is the train tracks running right down the middle of a street, and actually watching the trains use these tracks about once a day. One day the train actually had to stop for a traffic jam. The tracks connect New Bern to Morehead City Port Facility

   We had good weather for the three days we were in town and walked around town every day. Soon, however, it was time to return to Yorktown and prepare for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

   We put Tides Inn to bed in New Bern for a couple months and will return the end of December to continue our trip south to the Bahamas.

Oriental, NC - 30-31 Oct

  We arrived in Oriental before noon after a 4hr transit from Hobucken. It was well we got here early as within an hour most of the free town dock spots were filled up. With the very light winds, we were able to spin around in the narrow harbor and back into the dock. This will make an effortless departure on Monday morning.

   Oriental now has two free docks and room for 4-6 boats. They have free WiFi and several restaurants within walking distance plus the "Bean" coffee shop across from our dock.

   The "Bean" is the main rendezvous spot in Oriental, like the coffee house in Friends. It is directly across the street from our dock in the harbor - this photo taking from aft on our boat.

   We watched a steady stream of customers, starting at 7am and still going strong at 7pm on this Sunday. We had latte's yesterday and standard coffee's today, plus a bagel.

   On our port side is the Oriental Inn and Marina. It was full on Sat night but most all have left by Mon morning. They had a live band Sat night that entertained us.

   Oriental has a lovely waterfront residential area with several public access parks and paths. The weather was perfect today for sailing and walking and forecasted to last until Friday.

   Oriental advertises itself as the "Sailing Capital of North Carolina" and reportedly there are 800 inhabitants and 3000 sailboats here. It is a quick exit from the multiple marinas right into the Neuse River where the wind blows most every day. Of course, many days the wind blows too much for boaters and the river can be rough and dangerous, but today it was a gentle breeze and sunny skies.

   Tomorrow marks the end of our North Carolina cruising as we head for New Bern.

Mayo Seafood, Hobuken, NC 27-29 Oct

 

   We're back at the Mayo Seafood docks in Hobucken, a place we have stayed the last 3 times heading south. Years ago we always passed by here as it is halfway between Belhaven and Oriental or Beaufort but for the last few years we have been transiting south in January and we need places to stop and plug into shore power for heat.  

   Also, they have recently upgraded the dock walkways so it is a bit safer to get on and off the dock.

This trip we are expecting another cold front passing through tonight with wind and rain so we will hold up here for a couple days until the Neuse River settles down. 

   

   Hobuken is a real waterman's locale. There are 4-6 large ocean going shrimp and scallop boats that operate out of here and numerous small fishing boats working the local waters. The mullet were running and these boats were scouting for fish and throwing out nets when they located them.

   The 3 cruising boats staying here overnight all had fresh shrimp for dinner - $6 a pound, caught this morning.

    Wise decision to stay here for the frontal passage. Friday morning it was a only a little breezy and couple boats left, then the wind died completely and it rained heavy (while we were out walking), then it cleared up and the wind came up - really came up. Folks were reporting winds of over 40kts across eastern North Carolina. The trawler that had left, quickly returned to wait out the blow.

   By Saturday, the wind was calm and we got underway for Oriental.

Washington, NC 25-27 Oct

    

   Next stop on our North Carolina cruise was Washington, NC. This is a quaint town on the Pamlico River, situated where cargo would be transferred between boat and wagon or railroad. The waterfront has been completely refurnished with several marinas, a long town down for free overnight dockage with no services, and old port warehouses converted to restaurants and condos. There is a long walking path along most of the waterfront and we can confirm a steady stream of walkers starting about 0600 each morning to after sunset.

   We tied up along the city docks, and were by ourselves for our Monday to Wednesday visit. Except that we sat on the river bottom for several hours when the strong west winds blew the water out, we had a great visit.

   The replica lighthouse is the town marina office. They were super friendly and helpful. We went for a ride on the free loaner bikes you see parked. 

   We spent our two days walking around town. There was plenty to see on the 4 main streets paralleling the waterfront. 

   Pimlico River crabs were a big part of the historic waterman industry. 

   Mornings included a stop a Rachel K's Bakery for coffee and a peanut button chocolate croissant, while afternoons included a stop at Bill's Hotdogs. Both sites were among the highest rated restaurants in town and we confirmed they were great.

   Happy hour time was a stop at Sip and Suds for a Hazy IPA and nachos. Plenty of food for dinner.

   The weather continues to be blue and sunny although it was quite cool and breezy the whole time we were in Washington.

   Soon it was time to hit the "road" again and start moving towards the Neuse River and our ultimate destination of New Bern.  We had light westerly winds to help us back down the Pimlico River.

Elizabeth City - Belhaven 22-24 Oct

 

     After several days of perfect weather, a front was coming through with winds and scattered showers. We stayed at the dock for a couple nights to let the front blow through, while we entertained ourselves with the two walking tours of the city, one of historic houses and the other the historic businesses. We also visited with good friends and a great dinner at the Hoppin Johnz and craft beer at Ghost Harbor Brewing.

   Elizabeth City is a nice, small town and the walking tours were interesting and often amusing. Its interesting to observe the conditions of the towns along the ICW and their struggles to transition from thriving port cities to declining urban centers where most of the money has moved into the suburbs and remote shopping malls. Tourism is one way to bring in money as the towns try to showcase the Coastal Living history and life with large, old houses turning into B&Bs.

   Following the frontal passage, it was time to head on south. We were up with the rising sun for the lengthy trip across the Abermarle Sound, down the Alligator River and through the Alligator-Pungo Canal to the Belhaven area where we would anchor for the night. Several other boats had the same idea and there was a gaggle of us heading down the Pasquotank Sound.

   After a couple hours I made a standard check of all the boat systems and once again found the alternator not charging the batteries. This time it wasnt a fuse problem. The alternator was overheating and barely putting out any output. We decided to turn around and return to Elizabeth City as there is no mechanical help further on for several days.

   Once again it was back to troubleshooting the charging system. We have a spare regulator and spare alternator onboard so were able to swap them out. Unfortunately, that did not solve the problem so it appears we still have a gremlin in the system that is not at all obvious. That is the worse kind of electrical problem.

   At this point we decided we better go back home and get our portable generator which can charge the batteries instead of the engine. Since we were only 2hrs from home by car (3 days by boat), we borrowed a car and were back to the boat that night with generator (and several other items including a hot shower) in hand.  

   Staying in Elizabeth City gave us another night to try the local restaurants (their free dock paying dividends for local businesses). We grabbed a take-out pizza (take-out mainly because of COVID) and ate in the adjacent alley which has been decorated with tables atop decorated fire hydrants. How cute. Towns need to be inventive like Elizabeth City.

  With generator onboard, we were off again for Belhaven and through the Elizaeth City Bridge for the third time in two days.

   With no wind it was a smooth motor across the Albemarle Sound and four hours later we were at the Alligator River Swing Bridge. On this Sunday afternoon there was a great deal of traffic returning from the Outer Banks along this route, but the bridge was able to open without us having to wait only a couple minutes for a group of 3 sailboats to pass through. 

   Its quite unusual for the Albemarle to be this flat but we had the luxury of picking our day to cross.

   By the end of the day we had reached the end of the Alligator - Pungo Canal and were anchored in a protected bay.