3-4 Apr - Offshore to Charleston

 

   The predicted weather was for light winds from the southeast throughout our 24hr transit from St Mary's to Charleston, pretty much ideal. We were hoping to sail for much of the trip but knew the winds were supposed to die after midnight.

   It turned out we were only able to sail without the motor for 1hr the whole 24hrs. The winds were just too light and too far too the east to let us sail on course.  

 

     Of course, if we were "real sailors" we could have sailed at 3kts and tacked up the coast and made the trip in about 3 days, hopefully arriving before the strong cold front with northwest winds and thunderstorms arrived on the 6th. Instead, we turned on the motor and motored steady at 6kts with main and staysail out (which can be tightly sheeted for the apparent winds on the nose) and arrived at Charleston at 10am the next morning. 

 

    We passed by Fort Sumter at 11am and turned north up the ICW and were anchored in Awendaw Creek, our favorite spot between Charleston and Georgetown early that afternoon, ready for a good night's sleep after 30hrs at sea. 

   We hurried on north the next day, bypassing Georgetown and were safely anchored in the Wacamaw River when the cold front with its thunderstorms passed through.  

31 Mar - 2 Apr, Cumberland Island

 

   We have 3 days to wait for the best weather window to make the transit offshore from St Mary's Inlet to Charleston, and a great spot to sit for several days is anchored off Cumberland Island, GA. 

   Cumberland Island is a national park with no motor vehicles and only accessible by boat. There are several people ferries that shuttle campers and tourists over and a well protected anchorage area for private boats.

 

   The island is covered by old live oak forests that create unusual scenery and, it is the home of the largest herd of un-managed, wild horses that wander around and basically don't interact with the people. 

 

   A trail takes you across the island and eventually to a boardwalk that crosses the shoreline protective sand dunes leading to the beach.

 

   The beach about 13 miles long of fine sand and perhaps 20-50 people depending on the day of the week and weather.

    We carry our small shibumi sunshade and folding chairs in a couple bags, ready to quickly setup on any beach. Snacks and a couple cold beers make it a great day at the beach. 

 

   There are not many shells on this beach but enough for Sue to collect a small bag full. No shark's teeth found though I'm sure there are some there.

 

   Cumberland Island is famous for being the winter vacation grounds for the Carnegie family from cold and snowy Pittsburgh. At one time they had a mansion with multiple support buildings and servants on the southern part of the island. Now the mansion ruins are the prime grazing area for the island's horses. 

 

   We spent 3 cool but sunny beautiful days anchored off the island then, it was time to make the offshore run to Charleston before the next cold front with strong northerly winds pushed through.  

29-30 Mar, St Augustine anchorage and St Mary's

 

   We had a dolphin escort as we departed Daytona Beach heading north.

 

 

 

   Through the Bridge of Lions in St Augustine and continuing on north.  Since we visited with Johnathan in Daytona, we aren't stopping in St Augustine as we head on north.

 

    Our peaceful anchorage north of St Augustine just off the ICW. The wind has been blowing 20-30kts for several days since we left New Smyrna but, has finally blew itself out. Barely a breath of wind and few ripples on the water. Its good we have screens on our ports/hatches as this is when the no seeums come out.

 

   I guess we are trying to relax a bit more on this journey. We motored right past Fernandina and proceeded up to the quiet, laid back St Mary's marina in Georgia. This is a quaint town with only two main restaurants and one coffee shop. Unfortunately, the brewery is only open 3 days a week and we missed it this visit.   

26-28 Mar, Daytona Beach

 

   We had a quick transit up to Daytona and anchored on the east shore by the Veterans Memorial Bridge, directly across from the entrance to Johnathan's marina. 

 

   Daytona has some of the prettiest bridges on the ICW. They have amazing lights and some have great ocean scene mosaics and paintings on the supports - not just raw concrete as most bridges are. 

    Turned out we were able to participate in the 'No Kings Day' demonstration in Daytona. Sue made some signs up for us to display. We were surprised by the large crowd and supportive drivers in this very Red state. 

    In the afternoon, we dinghied over to Johnathan's new boat and got the tour. He is beginning to realize why you need to be retired in order to keep up with the repairs and maintenance on a big boat. 

 

   The weather held off for us to demonstrate in the morning, visit in the afternoon, then get back to the boat before the rain came in that evening. A great visit to Daytona, including an 8 mile walk out to Aldi's and WaWa.  

23-26 Mar, New Smyrna

 

   

    Back to New Smyrna meant spending more time with Carol and Tara. We were able to hit the New Smyrna Brewery, do wings at Merks and spend a game night at their house during our visit.

 

    We spent a lot more days at marinas this trip, mainly at New Smyrna and, enjoyed the luxury of not worrying about the weather, being plugged into shore power for heat, and access to hot showers and laundry. Visiting with Carol and Tara frequently was a treat. We'll do this again next year.

 

   After a great 3 days in New Smyrna, it was soon time to depart. We are planning to meet with my nephew, Johnathan, in Daytona Beach to see his new (to him) 40ft catamaran that they just bought.  

17-23 Mar, Banana River, Pineda Bridge, Cocoa Bridge, Titusville Bridge and Railroad Bridge and back to New Smyrna

 

   It was nice and sunny when we departed from Vero Beach but we knew there was a cold front coming through so we were heading for the Banana River anchorage which has good protection from all wind directions except due north.

   Just as we went under the bridge and turned towards the river entrance, the front overtook us with heavy rain and lots of close aboard lightening. Fortunately, no strikes on us.

 

   We loitered about for a half hour waiting for the thunderstorm to pass over before entering into the narrow river entrance. 

   Very thankful for our full enclosure of the cockpit that keeps us warm and dry even in hard rain.

    Soon we were in the protected river and anchored just north of the Mathers bridge. You can see the narrow Banana River provides good protection from winds except straight up to the north - which will become a problem in a couple days.

   Our plan was to spend several days anchored in the river enjoying the protection and walks ashore but, the winds were not to cooperate.

 

   From our anchoring spot we can dinghy into shore up a short canal that leads to a public park. At the park is the local rowing club and the rowers were out every day in racing canoes, single, double and 4-man sculls. They have 8-man sculls but we didn't see any out.  

    We had warm, short sleeve weather while in Vero but, with the cold front that blew through it was back to quite chilly temperatures and north winds on the beach. 

   

   With 20-30kt north winds forecasted, we decided to leave the Banana River and move up to the Pineda Bridge and anchor behind the protection of the causeway. This turned out to be a smart move as the waters were very calm despite the 20-30kt winds,

 

      It was a smooth night as the wind howled and we played dominos enjoying the calm waters.

 

      The only problem with the Pineda bridge anchorage is there was no where to go ashore. So the next day, as the winds came down some, we moved up to the next bridge at Cocoa Beach where we could dinghy ashore.

 

   Anchoring on the southeast side of the Cocoa Beach bridge, the dinghy path takes you through a small, low cut through of the causeway to get to the dinghy docks on the northern side. 

    Walking to WaWa at Cocoa Beach, Sue noted the Big Red Bus blood donation bus. She donated blood and got a $20 WaWa gift certificate.

   Next stop up the ICW from Cocoa is Titusville. With the winds now light from the northeast, we anchored on the southern side of the Titusville bridge.

   This is a great spot to watch rocket launches from Cape Canaveral. You can see the Space Shuttle construction building in the photo.

 

    We watched another Space-X satellite rocket launch from the Titusville bridge. I think this was our 6th Space-X launch we watched this trip. 

    A stop in Titusville means another trip to the Hardware Brewery for an IPA and stout. We were able to make it here two days in a row.

    So, mechanically everything has been going great this trip - until we got underway from Titusville. Within a few minutes, the engine overheated and we had to clear away access to the engine compartment and investigate.

   It turned out, the coolant hose within the hot water heater had sprung a leak and we lost all our coolant into the bilge. We were able to anchor, dinghy to shore and walk to Autozone for a short piece of radiator hose to bypass the hotwater heater. Then back on our way.

    By the 23rd, we were back in New Smyrna where we will spend a few days.

   Tides Inn looks pretty small next to the Nordhaven 55 trawler parked beside us. You really have to wonder why people want a boat (ship) this size just to cruise the East Coast. 

12-16 Mar, Vero Beach FL

    We moved down further south from Cocoa to Vero Beach, also known by cruisers as 'Velcro Beach' because it is so convenient and protected that no one wants to leave. 

   Its a very popular spot for cruisers and very protected waters with no big waves or wakes so they can raft 2-3 boats up on one mooring ball. Here is Tides Inn moored alongside Ad Asner.

   We will stay here for 5 days, taking on fuel and water and getting our laundry done, along with hot showers most every night. With no worries about storm fronts coming through to make you change your anchoring spot its a very relaxing and enjoyable spot.

    We continued our daily walks at Vero Beach, walking over to WaWa which was an 8 mile walk. Along the route, Sue spotted a barbeque restaurant which sold onion rings in three quantities: large, regular and, two rings. She only wanted two rings and when they came we realized the trick - they are two huge rings.  They were very good. 

  

   While we were in town there was a large art show at the park by the marina. We toured around and saw some amazing art but, our purchase was a Hazy IPA from the Rotary Club stand. It was great on a hot day.

    Another event while we were in town was a free concert down by the beach playing 60s and 70s rock for all the old people in Florida. 

    We did get to the beach before the concert. The water is still a bit cool in March even though its Florida. 

   It was soon time to depart and start are trip back north. Vero was the furthest south that we went on this year's cruise.

   The rainbow after a short shower was our signal to get underway and head north.

9-11 Mar, Pineda Causeway Bridge

 

   This was a new anchorage for us in this area. We normally move from Cocoa to Eau Galle, but we needed to get medicine for Rivah and we learned there was a new Costco at the Pineda Causeway I-95 exit. 

   The weather was cooperative so we anchored northwest of the bridge and took our dinghy into the Grills restaurant.

 

   This turned out to be a great stop. The restaurant had some great seafood and beer.

   It was a 9 mile walk out to Costco but they had Rivah's medicine and their was a sidewalk all the way for the walk. Mark was able to get a hotdog and ice cream sundae at Costco - plus a bottle of high test Kirkland Baileys. 

 

   Topping off our visit to Pineda was another Starlink launch. This one in the middle of the night, so no jellyfish, but a good red/white/blue trail.

 

   The phone camera doesn't focus too great on these night shots but the view from your eye is very impressive with a red/white/blue trail from the rocket up high in the sky.