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The last position reports for Tides Inn will be displayed on the map. (Courtesy of www.winlink.org) Tides Inn homeport is Dare Marina, Yorktown VA

Christmas Eve Storm at Dowry Creek


    For the past couple days our relatives have been calling warning, "Are you watching the weather? There's a bad storm coming."  Of course we have been watching the weather, seems every few hours, and calculating where we want to be tied up. In addition to the storm, there are two following days of sub-30deg weather that we would prefer to be plugged into power with heat. Also, its Christmas and we want good WiFi so we can Zoom with family and grandchildren.

   We decided to stop at Dowry Creek Marina which we are familiar with and like the ambiance. 

   As usual, there were good and bad aspects of Dowry Creek. The folks there were super helpful and friendly and the WiFi was okay. Bit spotty for Zoom, but fine for our other needs.  The problem with the marina turned out to be its exposure to the South winds which were exactly where the storm winds and waves came from.



   The storm winds and rain arrived about 6pm and lasted until after 8pm, coming basically in 2 squall lines and then steady downpour. Fortunately the strongest storms with embedded waterspouts went up the shoreline over Hatteras.

   We doubled up our mooring lines and added a third extra line on the starboard bow into the wind. At each break in the rain, we got out to tighten up the lines as they stretch out significantly when they get wet and also slip around the poles.

   The ride in the marina rivaled the ride across the Abermarle. It was a bucking bronco for a couple hours. I spent the two hours sitting at the helm seat watching the storm on our radar and instruments as well as my phone.

   



When we arrived at the marina, they assigned us a slip on the inside of the dock behind two large trawlers. It took some manuevering to get in and will be difficult to leave, but we were very glad to be on the inside as we watched the boats across the pier get pummeled by the waves. One sailboat with its stern to the waves was continually taking spray into the cockpit.



   A classic cruising story - after two hours of white knuckled, high stress storm conditions, always at night adding to the fear factor, all was fine at the end, thanks to good preparations.

   By Christmas morning, the skies were clearing and locals were out sailing again, even though the winds were still around 20kts with 2ft seas. As we sit here with the heat on, the skies are nearly cloudless and winds down. The temperature is forecasted to be in the 20s for the next 2 nights so we will stay plugged in here until Sunday. Then its off for Beaufort and points further south and warmer weather, although we heard it was 36 in St Augustine this morning. May have to get to Miami to be warm.  

Bashing across the Abermarle Sound


    Crossing the Abermarle is always a challenge if there is any wind up because it is so shallow (15-20ft) and the waves form steep and choppy peaks.

   The forecast was for 15+ kts just off the stbd bow but like in the Gulf Stream, the wind is always stronger than forecasted in the Abermarle. It turned out to be 20-25kts - just what the ICW guides tell you not to cross in.

   We had departed Coinjock at first light so we could enter the Abermarle at 0930 and be across by noon, before the strongest winds were forecasted but the winds decided to arrive early. 

   Fortunately, the wind angle was just enough to allow us to motor sail and keep our speed up cutting through the waves at a 60deg angle. By halfway across the wind had shifted some and the waves were at nearly 90deg and the ride began to smooth out.  


   Out in the Abermarle the US Coast Guard apparently used us as a training aid. They flew over at high altitude, then circled back and made a slow,  low altitude pass at about 500ft.  I think we were the only boat out on the Sound at that time.




   By the time we reached the Alligator River, the wind had shifted to the NW and we were heading south down the river on a downwind run. It was time to secure the engine and sail for the next two hours. As you see the conditions had calmed to the point Sue went out on deck to check on the spinnaker halyard and make sure it was not rubbing on the spreaders. 
   We had an enjoyable sail down the Alligator River in the bright sunshine and crisp temperatures. Actually a perfect sailing day in these more protected waters.





   This is the sailing we had in mind when we purchased our new dodger, bimini and full enclosure this summer. Sunny and brisk outside and short sleeve sailing inside. 


  By 4pm we were anchored off Deep Point at the bend of the river and mouth of the Canal. Time for a beer and snacks and watch the sunset.  After a rough start to the day, the afternoon sail was a just reward.


   

   After dinner and a pretty sunset we ran the generator for a couple hours to warm the blanket and interior, then time for bed at 8pm. Temperatures were not too bad, a low of 42 during the night and high 40s onboard below. But warm and cozy under the blankets.

Departure for 2020-2021 Florida Trip


    Its time to start provisioning for our winter trek to Florida. With Covid restrictions, cruising to the Bahamas is difficult and risky so we will restrict ourselves to Florida waters. This year we are departing in December, prior to Christmas, again because of Covid. We spent Thanksgiving with the grandchildren but it was too difficult for everyone involved to repeat the quarantining for Christmas, so we will set off on 20 Dec.


   Sue has been accumulating our provisions and staging them in the dining room. Time now to start loading the crates and carting down to the boat. By the time we are fully loaded with food, water and fuel, the boat sits a couple inches lower in the water.


   Departure morning. With both cars parked at the house, we are walking the two miles back to the boat. The 2x4 I'm carrying is one last modification. My sleep doctor recommended we raise the head of the bed so I cut a 2x4 that we can insert under the bed. Has worked out well, although I'm not sure it makes any difference to my sleeping.



   Underway, and heading down the Chisman creek. It was nice there was zero wind which made it easy to get all the lines off the boat and dock and stored below, then an easy back out of the slip.

   It was forecasted to start raining departure morning and it started a light sprinkling just as we left the slip. 


   We motored down to Norfolk through the continual light showers. It was nice to have the tidal current in our favor providing us an extra half knot of speed. By noon we were passing the Navy Base and carrier piers. USS Eisenhower and USS Ford were in port. The USS Ford is still having work done on the new technology electronic catapults which aren't functioning properly.



   Not much activity at Norfolk Waterside this December. The marina was completely empty as we passed by. Not much boating activity at Portsmouth on the other side of the Elizabeth River either although the shuttle boat was still operating and passed by with a couple of passengers. 


   We were soon down at the Great Bridge Lock for the 3pm lock opening. The rain was still drizzling and the temperature in the low 40s so we got to break out our cold weather foul weather gear. With our new full enclosure we haven't used this cold weather gear in a couple years. 

  


    No problem moving through the lock without any assistance (due to Covid again). Of course the lock water level lift was about 6 inches this time through. The level depends on how the winds are blowing between the Chesapeake Bay and Abermarle Sound.



   Our first opportunity to be "flexible cruisers" at Atlantic Yacht Basin. We called to check on berthing availability and were first told they were full, then they called back and said they had room, so we passed through the lock and arrived only to be told, "No, no room for you."  So we got fuel and water and then moved to the free dock on the other side of the ICW where, the dockage is free but there is no power so no heat. Fortunately, it wasn't that cold. We fired up our portable Honda generator for a couple hours which lets us run the electric blanket and a small space heater. 

   After a quiet night, it was off to our next stop and hopefully some power and heat at Coinjock. Another uneventful motoring day down the ICW. Only one bridge to pass through today at North Landing as the Centerville bridge is permanently open due to damage from an encounter with a barge last month. Its a short 5hr jog down to Coinjock, then that's the last marina to stop at for the next 80 miles.

   We asked about the 32oz Prime Rib but passed at the $53 tab, particularly since we were not dining inside due to Covid. We ordered a Rib-Eye for $20 which was excellent and provided dinner plus sandwiches for the next 3 days.

Southern Chesapeake Cruise - Cement Ships and Fleet Bay Anchorages

    September/October is the greatest cruising weather on the Chesapeake Bay. The days are still warm (to hot) but the nights cool off and humidity drops from the oppressive Jul/Aug weather. Sue and I decided to take advantage of the good weather and make a cruise of 7-10 days hitting various anchorages on either side of the bay. Playing off the weather/winds, we left our marina near Yorktown and sailed across the bay to the Eastern Shore and the Cement Ships anchorage south of Cape Charles near Kiptopeke. 

   In the 1948, after the end of WW-II, the Virginia transportation department formed a breakwater off the Kiptopeke Ferry Landing by sinking old war surplus concrete hulled merchant ships. With the building of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel the ferry no longer runs but the ships still provide a convenient anchorage spot. They are definitely eerie looking the first time you see them.


   Here's a close up shot passing through the channel opening. From a distance its hard to see the breakwater opening but as you get close its a good 30yards wide.
   Rivah had a great trip as well getting to smell a whole raft of new smells off the Eastern Shore. After spending the night behind the Concrete Ships we set sail back across the bay to the Northwest and up to Fleet's Bay just north of Deltaville. We had been told there was a nice sandy beach at this anchorage on land not easily reached from shore.
    We had an excellent sail directly across the Bay without having to even tack once and arrived at Fleets Bay. The only issue was the multiple large fish traps just off the channel. Fortunately we had good visibility and as we worked our way into Little Bay to anchor we could make out how to safely pass by each of the trap areas. I'm very glad it wasn't a reduced visibility environment.     After spending the night in Little Bay, the weather dictated that we sail back south to the Yorktown area the next day and spend a few days anchored in local waters. We decided to head for Goose Bay off Back Creek near Seaford, an anchorage we had been in before - isolated and protected.  We had a good sail south and were anchored by late afternoon. 

   Interestingly, the next morning we awoke to clear blue skies, but rolling fog banks flowing through the anchorage. For the most part there was enough visibility to be safe, but every so often it thickened up to zero visibility. I got to try out the fog horn PA system on my radio. 

   We spent 3 days at the anchorage just relaxing. At one point a local fisherman stopped by to see if we were okay. They were not used to seeing cruising boats staying there for extended periods.  We had nowhere to be and the scenery was great. Most every morning and evening we were treated to dolphins feeding around us.

   With several days to sit and relax, Sue mounted up her hammock. She's becoming a hammock fan, commenting on how comfortable they are. 

   Its hard to beat sitting at anchor in a protected bay when the weather is fairly ideal, not too hot or cold or stormy. It was a great week and everything on the boat seemed to work properly. Great trip.


Chris and Family Visit - Sail to Yorktown VA

    In early September, Chris and kids had the opportunity to visit for the weekend and the weather looked good for a day sail on the Chesapeake. We loaded up the boat with a picnic lunch and headed out for the bay. Unfortunately, our route out the Poquoson River to the bay was straight into the 20kt winds and 2-3ft seas. It made for a bouncy and wet slog.


   After an hour bashing our way out to the York River, we were ready to call it a day and return to port, but once we got to the river channel we were able to turn downwind and everything quickly settled down. Interestingly, we saw two sailboats motoring out the York River directly into the wind and while I was watching, I saw the mast of one of them crumple backwards. Soon he was on the radio calling for help. Towboat quickly responded and towed him back to Sarah's Creek.

   Sailing direct downwind it turned out to be a wonderful day. Additionally, the wind steadily dropped in force which was good for the trip back up the river.  We sailed down to Yorktown and under the Coleman Bridge.


   It always looks like the mast is going to hit the bridge, but the charts show a clearance of over 20 feet and that's what we had.

     After clearing the bridge we did a 180 turn and started heading back to homeport. By late afternoon the wind had died to under 10kts and we were able to motorsail back to home, passing back by Yorktown landing on the starboard side. You can see the schooner Alliance at the Yorktown docks. 'The kids had a great time after a rough start to the day.


P-51 and F-22 Flyover

   In these COVID days we are always looking for reasons to go cruising while sitting at anchor with no interactions with the public. We heard about the US Air Force planning an overflight of a modern F-22 jet and two WW-II era P-51s and jumped at the opportunity to anchor under the flight path in Hampton VA.

   The weather cooperated perfectly. We sailed down from Yorktown to the anchorage area off Fort Monroe, Hampton VA and were positioned to have a great view.  The flight formation flew down Interstate 64 from the Richmond area to Norfolk and passed right overhead of our anchorage.  

   It was interesting to note the contrast in size of the top of the line fighters from 1945 and today's Raptor F-22. The F-22 is actually a fairly large fighter jet, significantly bigger than many modern short-range fighters.


 

     

COVID Cruise 1 - with Jackson

    We originally were planning to head for New England this summer, but with the COVID outbreak and not wanting to go ashore anywhere, we decided to cruise around the southern Chesapeake. When Grandson Jackson came to visit for a week in May, we headed for the Dismal Swamp and a trip down to the (closed) Visitors Center. 

    We had a week of nice weather. A light breeze on the way down to Norfolk and some perfect beam winds along the way back. 

   Jackson got a bit of helm time in as we let the autopilot take a rest. He just finished completing the Virginia Boating Safety class and received is Boating License prior to this trip. He got to get some experience to back up his bookwork skills.  




  


 Heading down past the Naval Base towards the Dismal Swamp you pass by most of the US Navy Atlantic Fleet. We were lucky to watch a submarine pass by. Normally the subs are fairly hidden behind the security fencing along the piers.





   Heading into the Dismal Swamp canal requires a passage through the Deep Creek locks and a lift upwards of about 8-9 feet. Its a fairly simple process. It can be done singlehanded, but having 2 line handlers plus the helmsman makes it simple. 



   It was a smooth trip down the Dismal Swamp canal. We did have to carefully pass a couple of northbound vessels. The tricky hazard in the canal is the overhead tree branches. You have to be extra careful picking your passing spot and watching up as you pass by other boats not getting too far over into the overhanging trees. We collected a few twigs along the upper shroud, but no damage to the instruments at the mast top.


   From Deep Creek Lock its about 4-5 hrs to get down to the Visitors Center which is just past the North Carolina state line.  We made it all the way down without any "bumps" on submerged logs along the way. We did see a couple trees that had come down in Spring storms that still hadn't been cleared, but they were not blocking more than half the canal allowing clear passage.


   The Visitors Center and the Nature Center were both closed due to COVID, but the walkways were open. Sue, Rivah and Jackson and I went for a long walk through the woods and along the raised nature trail. We saw and laughed at the sign about ticks but didnt understand the importance of the sign until we finished the walk and checked ourselves. We pulled at least 20 ticks off EACH of us, not just the dog. We have never seen that many ticks before. They must have just had a swarming or something. We checked again at the end of the day before heading to bed and found one or two more we had missed.







   It was soon time to head back to Virginia and take advantage of the upcoming southerly winds to blow us back up the Bay. Back up the canal and through the Deep Creek lock. This time Robert was working and he treated us to his stories of the Canal and some Conch horn blowing. We're glad we got to see Robert again as were learned that unfortunately he died unexpectedly a couple months later from a heart attack. We'll miss his coffee and doughnuts get-togethers he would host for the boats that stayed the night at the Deep Creek Lock free docks.






   As we headed north up past the Naval Station we watched a fog bank roll in from the northeast. One minute it was clear blue skies an unlimited visibility and the next it was down to less than 100 yards. Fortunately we had seen this tanker at anchor before the fog enveloped him. It was a very eerie look to see the big hull looming out of the fog. We got to use our radar and fog signals as we decided to do a bit of sailing off to the west of the channel and anchorage area waiting for the fog to clear before we continued north into the Chesapeake (and shipping channels).


  The trip back up the bay was a great sail with winds on the beam building to 20kts, perfect weather for our Island Packet. We were zooming north at 7+kts and at one point making 7.8kts in a strong gust.  The winds were bringing in some stormy weather so we decided to head for our home waters and anchor in the Chisman Creek for a couple days.


Anchoring in the creek with some wind and rain forecasted was a good opportunity to try out our anchoring riding sail that Sue had just finished making. Jackson and I hoisted it up on the starboard backstay. I have to say it really doesnt do all that much but I suppose it slightly cuts down on the boat sailing at anchor. It doesnt stop the sailing completely though, so not worth spending a lot of money or time on. I think the sail kit was about 69$. 






 


  More important training for Jackson was learning to tie a Rolling Hitch that we use to attach our snubber line to the anchor chain rode. The snubber is very important when anchoring in windy and wavy conditions to allow some stretch in the anchor rode. I've tried all different types of hooks and shackles, all of which seem to come off in rough conditions,  and have settled on just using the Truckers Hitch. Its important to get it tied securely though or it can also slip in strong winds.

 


Following the frontal passage, the next day was clear and sunny conditions. Jackson got to practice his small boat skills driving the dinghy around Chisman Creek.  


Overall, it was a very successful trip. All had a great time and stayed COVID safe.