Arrival Miami - Last Leg of First Phase

   We arrived in Miami just after noon today, 14 days after departing Dare Marina, Yorktown., with a couple days to spare before we depart on Saturday to drive back home in just over 14 hours.

   We left Fort Pierce last evening just before sunset to make the 16 hour "drive" down to Miami. Since there was little wind (and little waves) it was a comfortable motor trip down the coastline about 125 miles.

   Sunrise on Wednesday found us making good time towards Miami. Initially we had a strong headcurrent, the edge of the Gulf Stream, holding us up but we continued to close in closer to shore, eventually transiting about half a mile off the beach in 45ft of water and actually picked up a counter current that helped push us along. A few sprinkles from showers in the morning but no problem with our enclosure.

   Miami Vice may be off the air but, muscle boats continue to thrive in Miami. Everyone seems to go full speed in the Miami waters. First time I had to check my rear view mirrors before making a maneuver in our sailboat.

   Sue spotted this guy as we made our turn to the south of Miami along the channel to Biscayne Bay.
  We have never blown on one of these shells before, just the conch shells. Will have to pick up a couple of these in the Bahamas and check them out for horns.

   By two o'clock we were on our mooring ball at Dinner Key in Biscayne Bay looking back at Miami in the distance.
   We will stay here at Dinner Key near Coral Gables for couple days.  Some friends are already here and we will get to spend time with them tomorrow. They have a great dog friendly shuttle here so Sue and Genny have already made arrangements to be on the first shuttle in the AM to get out and stretch their legs. We will move the boat over to Crandon Park Marina to leave for next week.
   Back to work in DC for a week, then back to the boat and off to the Bahamas.
   Was a very successful first leg to the trip. No boat problems and an on-time arrival.

Charleston to Fort Pierce, FL

   After a quick night and shower at Isle of Palms marina near Charleston it was time to head offshore for Florida.

   We motored the last few miles down the Intracoastal Waterway, through the last bridge (Ben Sawyer) who held us up 10 minutes so they didn't have to open twice in a short time, then into Charleston Harbor and heading out to sea.
   The harbor and inlet were a bit rough as the wind was against the tide, but once we cleared the breakwater it smoothed down some.  It wasn't to last....

   Genny looks calm but, check out the left front paw claws clenched - and this was after things settled down.
   The forecast was for winds 20-25 with gusts to 30 from northwest and shifting to west during the night.  Hopefully we could sail with winds on beam heading south.
   The reality was the winds were just slightly too far forward for us to sail on course and we slowly got pushed out to sea where winds and waves kept growing. Check our track on "where's Tides Inn" and you can see how we were pushed out to sea from Charleston - that wasn't intentional, we would have liked to follow the coast closer where winds were supposed to be lighter.
   By midnight the winds were steady at 30 gusting to 35 and higher. The waves were 5-8ft and steep and rolling us 45deg every few wave trains. I had to admit to Sue "this is not fun anymore". The boat was doing ok with 3-4 reefs in the sails, but we were slowly being pushed towards the Gulf Stream where the conditions would be worse and the current would start taking us to the north away from Florida.  Then we started hearing an ominous grinding noise from under the helm seat near the shaft and rudder. We decided to "hove-to", basically stopping in the ocean and sitting with sails backed away from wind, to check out the noise. That meant clearing the aft cabin of all our stores to get to the hatches. That done, the shaft was fine, a great relief, for now we at least had a reliable engine if needed. We then figured out the noise was coming from the wind generator transmitted through the hull. Turned it off and the noise went away. We decided to stay hove-to for a couple hours while we got a bit of sleep (at least I laid down, Sue sat on watch).. We drifted/were pushed back 5 miles in two hours by the wind, but that was better than going forward towards Gulf Stream.
   The forecast was for the wind to ease and veer to northwest at dawn and that's exactly what happened at 6am. As the wind shifted we were able to start sailing on course again. Over the next two days the wind eased to 15-20kts and slowly clocked all the way around to east, but always behind us and always pushing us towards the warmer, Florida waters.

  

   We arrived at Fort Pierce an hour before sunset, pushing all the way. We had one more challenge to surmount though before we could anchor and crack a brew, entering the inlet with a brisk 15kt wind opposing the strong 3kt outgoing current. With our trusty Island Packet and Yanmar diesel we pushed through, but it was a challenging task. Probably would have been more prudent to sail/loiter offshore for 3hrs waiting for the current to shift but that would have meant entering in the dark with its own challenges.
   When Sue took Genny up to the bow once we anchored she found a hitchhiker, a small flying fish signifying we were finally in the warm tropical waters.
   Tonight we will head back out to sea when the southerly winds ease off and motor the final 100 miles to Miami.  100 miles offshore (16hrs) is far better than 3 days down the ICW with the numerous restricted bridges between here and Miami.

Georgetown, SC

   We spent a full day sitting (rocking in wind) at anchor in Georgetown, SC. Except for the 3 factories (in far background), this is a very scenic and enjoyable town. The wind was calm at dawn when I snapped this picture but quite strong (30kts offshore) that night.

   Another plug for the great enclosure - sitting in short sleeves in the cockpit while it is 50deg and breezy outside, sweatshirt and fleece weather.
   Tomorrow will be the final test as we head offshore in 25kts of wind and 40degs. We'll only be able to use the upwind side when sailing because of the headsail control lines. But that's the critical side to block the wind and spray.

   Heading south of Georgetown you enter the South Carolina marsh lands. Sea grass to the horizon. Georgia is much more of the same.

   Another stressful day as the water levels are exceptionally low because the strong west winds are blowing the water out of the ICW and not letting the incoming tide bring it back. We finally ran out of water north of Charleston and stopped for the day ( we stopped before our water level got this low).
   Tomorrow we will finally exit the ICW at Charleston and finally get to the safety of sailing offshore.

Genny has had a chance to get in some good reading also. Now if she could just learn to stand the watch alone. 

Myrtle Beach to Georgetown, SC

   One of the ironic (dumb) aspects of insuring your yacht is that there are stringent requirements for offshore sailing including:  number of crewmembers, experience level, safety equipment, area of operations, etc...   but, there are no special requirements for operating within coastal US waters and the ICW. There is no body of water more dangerous to incurring damage to your boat than the ICW.
   Today's journey was a good example. First we had to finish transiting the "Rockpile" around Myrtle Beach where the ICW is very narrow and bounded on each side with sharp, jagged rocks. Fortunately we didn't have to pass anyone there. Then we had to wait for the Socastee Bridge tender to get around to opening the bridge with current and wind behind us threatening to push us into the bridge. On the other side of the bridge we met two large tug/barges. The first forced us to stop and move to the edge of the ICW just feet from the cypress trees and a no-wake bouy. The problem is that on a boat, when you stop and have no motion, you have no steering and the boat will drift where it desires, like right into the path of the oncoming barge. So we had to keep minimum way on without running into the trees and bouy.  Just made it.

   Next up was a USCG buoy tender that was stationary in the channel replacing a lateral marker. Fortunately there was room to pass behind him.

   Then came the rain and the fog. Several times we had to slow and wait for the fog to clear making minimum forward progress.
   But the great thing about fog is I get to use my automatic foghorn function on the VHF radio and loudspeaker. It automatically sounds the foghorn every 2 minutes as required by regulations.
   I also got to use the rain filter on my Raymarine radar which worked very effectively. It cuts out the rain returns when you want to look for contacts and channel markers.  Then you can switch back to normal mode and scan out to see when the next rainshower is coming and how severe it will be. Fancy tools for the modern sailor.

      The highlight of the day, though, was the great enclosure Sue made. Throughout this rainy day transit we were able to sit in shirtsleeves and leave the rain gear hanging to dry. The visibility was restrictive, but the comfort level was outstanding.

   By 4pm we were anchored in the Georgetown anchorage area, after another trying, but successful transit.  The wind has picked up and forecasted to blow at 30-35kts for next couple days so we will plan to stay here tomorrow as well.
   The great thing about the ICW is the interesting sights along the way (compared to water, water everywhere offshore). Look at this unique home made craft in Georgetown!
   You also meet interesting people along the way on the ICW. We had dinner last night with "Pancho" (aka James) from SV Muchacha at Barefoot Landing, a fellow transitor along the ICW heading to Florida. This is not his boat though, he has a nice Tartan 40.

Wrightsville Beach to Myrtle Beach, SC

    It was a cool and grey day all day long today with temps in the low 50s. Cold work for the clamers working in the 50deg water near Holden Beach.

   This is another section of the ICW you would love to avoid if at all possible because of the shallow and shoaling inlets of Lockwoods Folly and Shallotte. Unfortunately for us the wind was from the south so it made more sense to stay in the ICW than head offshore into the wind/waves.
   Lockwoods Folly was a winding path with strong currents left and right, but the channel was deep and exactly as annotated on the chart plotter. We passed through with only white knuckles to show.
   Shallotte Inlet was another story. It started out ok, then we rounded the bend and spotted a dredge and work crews directly in the center of the channel ahead. From the dredge, pipes and lines and tugs went all the way to shore to the left. On the right side there were two temporary red bouys well outside the normal channel. A quick call on VHF channel 13 and the dredge captain told me to pass down his western side between him and a temporary yellow bouy (sending us outside the normal channel).  The waters went to 6ft deep (we draw 5), then quickly dropped to 12ft as soon as we passed the dredge. The rest of the Inlet passage has apparently been dredged as it was 12ft.

   Of course, to our disadvantage, it was low tide during the afternoon as we passed through the shallowest sections of the ICW in this area. Several times we had to nearly stop and relocate the channel, almost always over to the left of the charted position.

   We eventually arrived safely at Barefoot Landing, North Myrtle Beach just after 5pm and as darkness was descending. Our day was more successful than this sailor's day. Not sure how he ended up here (probably broke free from a mooring), but always a sad sight.
   We will be off early tomorrow for Georgetown SC and down the Waccama River, the prettiest section of the entire ICW. Looking forward to that leg.

Swansboro to Wrightsville Beach, NC

   Today's trek along the ICW is a section one likes to avoid, but the offshore weather wasn't accommodating. Between Swansboro and Wrightsville you first have to pass through the Camp Lejeune Firing Range. Normally it is not active and no problem but this morning the yellow lights were flashing. Fortunately the firing hadn't started yet and the Navy patrol boat told us to pass through "transit only - no stopping."  Fine with us.

   The next challenge is 4 bridges to pass through which are on restricted schedules, meaning they only open on the hour (or hour and half hour for two of them) which forces you to set your speed to arrive at opening times and basically slows you down one hour along the day's transit. That means you can't get to Carolina Beach Park where we would like to stop.

   Since we couldn't reach Carolina Beach Park, we are anchored in the anchorage area around the corner in Wrightsville Beach area. Its a nice protected anchorage area. Normally a very busy anchorage during transit times (April and October) but pretty empty in Jan.  There was one boat already anchored and one more sailboat followed us in, so there are 3 of us for the night. Tomorrow we'll head out early and should make it to Myrtle Beach area.  Still looks like Friday before we can get out to sea.
   Overcast and a few showers throughout the day today, and forecasted for tonight/tomorrow, but the temperature is in mid 50s so not too bad. Better than the snow showers in Wash DC!

River Dunes to Swansboro, NC

   Here's a view of the luxurious clubhouse at the River Dunes Marina. Office, library/reading rooms and game room downstairs, restaurant upstairs. Pool to the left and exercise/showers to farther left. Their winter rates made staying here for the night a nice treat, especially the hot showers.

   Tides Inn looks a little small tied up in the 80ft slip at River Dunes, next to the 65ft Viking. Good thing I have 2 50ft power cords as it was that far to the power outlet.

   We ended the day at Dudley's Marina in Swansboro. Not quite the same amenities as River Dunes, but I like this place ever since I arrived here in 2004 on a broken delivery boat and the folks here bent over backwards to help us out.  The only problem at Dudley's is the barnacles/shells attached to the poles. You have to be careful to keep fendered well off the poles and away from the sharp shells.

   Passed the mile 200 point today after only four and a half days. Boat travel is not the fastest mode of transpo!  We will be confined to the ICW until Friday, it appears from weather forecast, so should be able to log another 200 miles by then.  Looks like we may be able to get out on the ocean Friday at Georgetown, SC.
   Meanwhile all is going well. Temperature is up to mid 60s. Genny is back in the swing of potty trips to the bow.  All is well on Tides Inn.

Crossing the North Carolina Sounds

   Had a great day today for crossing the Pamlico River and Sound. Temp in the 60s and a 5-10kt breeze just off the bow enough to let us motor sail at a good clip. We arrived at River Dunes Marina just before sunset and navigated the winding channel full of crab pot floats/lines successfully.  Not a place to come into at night. Entrance channel was 6ft, not 8ft as advertised. Very fancy place - will post pictures tomorrow.

   This is where we spent last night, anchored just before entrance to Alligator-Pungo Canal at MP103. This is a popular anchorage for ICW transitors but, funny, we were the only ones there on 6-7 Jan.  Not an unpleasant night. Temp was 49 this morning. Decided not to dig out the generator to run a heater, just jumped under 4 blankets.

   Once the anchor's down and dinner's over its time for dominos. Sue loves her new chair (her Sailrite sewing machine with pad and cover).  Just right for our small table the sits under the main salon table (folded up).

   We got in several games before the temperature began dropping and it was time to jump in bed - 0730pm.  Got in a good nights sleep before rising at 0600 for today's long run to River Dunes.

   Tomorrow is supposed to be same weather as today, but chance of rain after midnight. We hope to get past Camp Lejeune to Swansboro tomorrow. Hopefully another warm day we can open the dodger center window like this which greatly improves visibility.
    All going smoothly so far.

On to Coinjock, NC

   It was a short leg today from Great Bridge to Coinjock, only about 40 miles. But, the next marina along the Intracoastal Waterway is another 35 miles and we couldn't make it before dark - and its always difficult getting into an unfamiliar marina in the dark (and cold), so best to stop early and relax.
   This is Midway Marina in Coinjock, on west side of ICW. Not much to do in Coinjock, just tie up and turn on heater.  Weather is in mid 50s, so we'll go for a walk later.

   For those new folks following our blog (Greg's friends), this is Tides Inn, our Island Packet 380 cutter rig sailboat. Island Packet makes, IMHO, the best cruising sailboats with lots of storage space, a shallow keel for getting into out-of-the-way places, and a full keel and staysail rig for comfortable and safe ride in a blow. Ask Gregory about 55kts and 18ft seas in the Delaware Bay.

   We have a lot of cruising gear hanging off the stern which unfortunately lowers the stern and slows us down some, but makes cruising for months in the islands very enjoyable. We have two solar panels for charging the batteries and a wind generator for when the sun doesn't shine (rare). We have dinghy davits for carrying the dinghy in the islands (we roll and store it on deck for ocean transits so big waves don't rip it off). Our Yamaha dinghy engine sits on the stern rail and barbeque grill is hanging on stbd quarter.

    This is a typical view of the ICW through northern sections of NC as you head down North Landing River through Coinjock, to Albemarle Sound, Alligator River, Pungo River and Pamlico Sound/Neuse River until you finally arrive at the Atlantic Ocean at Beaufort.  A lot of this area is outside of any cellphone coverage, so there won't be a blog update tomorrow.

   Milepost 45, just before Coinjock. The ICW starts at Norfolk at MP 0 and ends around the Texas/Mexico border, with a few gaps in the Gulf area. We'll try to head offshore off NC if weather allows and come back into ICW at Miami to cruise around Biscayne Bay (MP 1095) for couple weeks.  Only 1050 miles to go! (at 7.5 mph)

   Here's a "real sailor" we passed along the way with no dodger, bimini or enclosure - just his foul weather gear to keep warm.
  
   Tomorrow night we'll be roughing it, anchoring out at entrance to Alligator River Canal. Supposed to be in mid 40s Fri night so not that cold. Sat we'll be at River Dunes Marina and will have wifi and can update the blog.

Underway for Bahamas - Finally

   We are finally underway and heading south, departing 7am on 4 Jan, sailing into the rising sun on a crisp 20deg morning.
   Our plan was to leave yesterday, but waking to 28-34kt winds and 4-6ft seas in Chesapeake Bay convinced us to wait another day.
 

  
   Good decision. This morning we gathered all dock lines in zero wind and heading out into 1ft waves and following tide.  Fast trip down the bay to Norfolk with 10kt winds on the aft quarter.
   The cockpit enclosure is a great success, and essential for winter sailing. We had a very comfortable ride with no wind chill factor.

   That's ice on the outside of the enclosure from sea water kicked up from exhaust. Its about 52 inside the cockpit and 32 outside.  That's about about 30 degrees (including wind chill factor) more comfortable. Very nice in the sun. Got to put my heavy foul weather jacket back in the closet.

   There was alot of commercial traffic in Hampton Roads harbor. We stayed over on the "red" side just outside the deep water channel bouys. Was especially important as we passed by an outbound submarine "Event A" escorted by the USCG maintaining a 500yd security zone with "deadly force" authorized.

   Even after clearing the merchant anchorage area and naval base we still had to watch out for lots of tug traffic. These containers are probably heading for Baltimore after being unloaded from a ship in Norfolk.

   By noon we were passing by Norfolk Waterside and heading down the Elizabeth River. Not as much traffic anymore, but still some barges and security boats off the Naval repair yards.

   Genny is enjoying her trip and very appreciative of the enclosure where she can sit in the sun and enjoy the warm rays on her brown hair.

   Mid-afternoon and we're tied up at Atlantic Yacht Basin. Time for some reading in the cockpit. Sue's a little overdressed for the conditions, but she just came in from outside where it is still in 30s.

   Yep, still cold out there.  Those are icicles hanging down from the fender.
   Supposed to be 40s tomorrow, then into the 50s and we'll keep making further progress south.  Come on warm weather.
   On to Coinjock tomrrow - assuming we can get through the Centerville Bridge which was closed all day today for mechanical malfunction.