06-07 Jan - Holden Beach - Georgetown, SC

 

   Today is a long run (10 hrs) from Holden Beach to Wacca Wache in South Carolina where we will refuel with diesel.

   Sue was up early to walk the beach with Rivah looking for shells. We then departed just at sunrise.

   The challenge today is to get through Shallotte Inlet which is shoaled badly, to 4ft at lowest tide. We need 5ft to get through.  We are leaving early so we can pass through at mid-tide and rising. Had no problems.

 

   We got through Shallotte with no problems but immediately ran into fog near Calabash, NC. We had to slow down and proceed cautiously for a half hour or so before the fog lifted. Didn't see another boat along the way which is nice about traveling in January.

   By noon we were passing through Myrtle Beach and under the Grande Dunes bridge (connecting Grande Dunes condos to the golf course).

  It was great to have a favorable current behind us most of the day.

 A view of the mansions along the ICW just down from the Grande Dunes golf course. There are still lots available for you multi-millionaires out there.

 

   By the end of the day we had reached the Waccamaw River. We decided to anchor first and get our diesel fuel first thing the next morning. Good thing as the marina had closed early at 4pm, used to be 5pm closing.

   We had a quiet night with no wind at anchor and temperature is up to 50s at night. Pretty toasty for us. 

    As I always report, the Waccamaw is the prettiest stretch along the entire ICW from Virginia to Miami. Because it meanders through a cypress swamp, there are no houses in sight for hours of passage. 

   Its a bit dreary looking in the winter, although the extensive Spanish moss and spooky, swampy forests have their own unique beauty.

   In the spring it is all green and full of birds and other critters. 

 

    Made it to Georgetown. We will stay here for 3 days while we wait for a weather window to sail offshore from South Carolina to Florida. We always try to skip Georgia which takes an extra 4 days to wind through the meandering grasslands, with 8ft tides and lots of shallow spots. We can be in Florida from here in just over 24hrs proceeding offshore and sailing overnight. 

   Fortunately, the temperatures are in the low 70s for the next couple days. We will anchor for the next 3 days and come into town each day to walk and visit the coffee shops and brewery - plus good ice cream shop.  If the sun keeps shining we can keep the batteries charged up with the solar panels and not need to run the engine. 

   All going good so far this trip.  

02-04 Jan, Beaufort - Hammock Bay - Masonboro - Holden Beach

 

   In Beaufort area, we actually anchored off Sugar Loaf Island which is on the Morehead City side of the inlet.

   With the forecasted light winds, anchoring off Morehead City positions us further along our way down the ICW.

   Often, there are strong SW winds in this area and we anchor over on the Beaufort side next to the USCG base with good protection but, that would be a little backtracking when heading south. 

    With clear and cold skies we had a nice sunset and sunrise the following morning. Today is a relatively short run (7hrs) to Hammock Bay. The only challenge is getting through the Onslow Beach bridge in a timely manner as it is under construction.

 The ICW cuts through a shooting range within the Marine base Camp Lejeune. In our 20yrs of cruising, we have seen the ICW close once for active firing. On this cold January day there was no problem passing through.

 

   We had called ahead to confirm there was no maintenance ongoing on 02 Jan and when we arrived at the bridge that was the case (the bridge operator doesn't control the maintenance schedule, he just reports what he sees - no one working). We passed through at 3pm and were anchored in Hammock Bay by 4pm.

   Next morning we are up and ready to head for Masonboro after Rivah completes here morning duties.

   The challenge today is getting through the Figure Eight and Wrightsville Beach bridges in a timely manner.

    Got through the bridges without any big delays and anchoring in Masonboro Inlet near Wrightsville. 

This is one cold waterman out working with no enclosure. Temperature in the 40s is really cold when on the water with a breeze blowing. 

This will be our 3rd night jumping into a cold bed with no heat. Fortunately the temps are staying in the mid 40s at night. Takes a bit of time warming the bed, but once its warm we are good for the night. 

   Another cold morning, departing the anchorage at sunup. With clear skies and a bright sun the cockpit will soon be in the 60s, but that is a couple hours away.

   Today's run is down the ICW to the Cape Fear River, then on down to Holden Beach.

 

  Made it to Holden Beach in mid afternoon. Time for a walk on the beach to check the sea shells. Quite a bit of beach erosion going on. The community paid several million $$ a few years ago to replenish the beach and it seems to be eroding away fairly quickly. 

   We will stay in Holden Beach for two days at the Town Dock where we can plug into shore power (means HEAT), and use the showers and laundromat. Clean sheets plus clean bodies with hot showers - a cruisers dream!

Sue got a few shells, pickings were unusually slim for Holden Beach. 

 

 

 

New Bern to Morehead City, NC 1 Jan 2026

    Underway early morning , 1 Jan 2026, and heading into the sun down the Neuse River towards warmer weather. It was about 40 degrees this morning, a bit warmer than the last few days around 30.

   

   As we passed by Oriental, we watched about 30 sailboats out for a 1 Jan race. They had a good day for it, with sunny skies and 10kts of wind down the river. Probably some fun after race parties. 

   Sitting in our cockpit enclosed with plexiglass on all sides, the temperature is up to 75 inside. Very comfortable. Got up to 60 down below. Forecasted to be in mid 40s tonight, our first night with no heat for the trip. 

    At Oriental, we turn south into Adam's Creek which takes you from the Neuse basin to the ocean at Beaufort.  We were able to hit the outgoing tide which took as down the river at 8mph, super fast for motoring on the ICW. 

   There's always a few barges to pass along the ICW. And,

    there's always a crazy power boater that wants to cut right in front of the sailboat and the tug. 

    At the end of the day we anchored off Sugar Loaf Island off Morehead City. Supposed to be a quiet night and similar conditions tomorrow. Off to a great start for our trip south.

    Rivah likes her new comfy bed that keeps her a bit warmer. 

New Bern - 30 Dec

    We're back on the boat in New Bern preparing to head on south on 1 Jan. Weather was pretty warm yesterday, in 60s, as we drove down to New Bern from Yorktown and transferred supplies from the rental car to the boat.

   Today it is clear and cold, 32degrees last night and forecast 30 tonight. But it warms up for our departure on the 1st, should be in 40s.

    We had 5 dock cart loads to transfer to the boat and then store away, all in their proper place. 

   We also defrosted the freezer before loading it up with all the new frozen items. 

   We de-winterized the water system and heat pump, now that we are back onboard we can keep the temperatures onboard at least in the low 60s. The cockpit shower and washdown pump hoses will stay winterized until we get down to Florida.  

   All the stores are stored away - Sue is camped out on the settee today as it is too cold to go outside and tour around. 

   We are looking forward to the New Year's Eve festivities they have here in New Bern on the 31st. They have a New Bern Bear that the drop at midnight like the NYC Time Square ball and, a sound stage with excellent music groups. It should be warmer tomorrow for those events.

  

 

 

   Sue is ready for warmer weather.  We walked back from dropping the rental car off at the airport into the cold north wind. Tomorrow should be warmer. We're off for Beaufort, NC on the 1st. 

 

 

 

 

  

New Bern 1 Nov

 

   Heading out from Oriental for New Bern on a crisp Saturday morning. Except for the 3 days of rain we spent at Dowry Creek, we have had great weather the whole trip with mostly blue skies.

   We have a 4 hour trip today up the Neuse River to New Bern.

   A nice surprise, we were able to sail for an hour and a half up the river as the winds were initially from the northwest letting us secure the engine for awhile.

   But eventually we had to follow the river and turn to the northwest into the wind and it was back to motoring. Fortunately the wind was only about 8-10kts and seas fairly calm so a comfortable drive.

   Just after 1pm and we are passing through the New Bern bridge just outside the marina. This is similar to Elizabeth City where there is a small bascule bridge on a busy highway that lies just outside the town and marinas.

   Tides Inn tucked into her new temporary home for the next two months. She will stay at New Bern until we head for Florida on 1 Jan 2026.

   After being delayed 3 weeks last year heading south for 3 snow storms and freezing weather, we decided to get the boat further south in October this year. From New Bern we will only have a one day transit to the warmer coastal waters of North Carolina that are still warmed by the Gulf Stream in January. 

Oriental, NC 30-31 Oct

 

  We departed Dowry Creek at sunrise before any wind could come up. We only had just over one boat length of maneuvering room behind us so we didn't want any wind making the departure any more challenging.

  There was very little wind and we were able to spin the boat within its length and make our way out of the marina.

   On to Oriental.

   Saw this guy just north of Hobucken. Sitting pretty low in the water, waves were breaking over the bow. That's about all the gravel he can carry.

   Passing by Mayo Seafood in Hobucken. We often stay overnight here when it is cold and we need to plug into shore power for heat. Today we are proceeding on to Oriental.

  Surprisingly, some idiot in a 60ft sport fisher boat passed us between us and the docks. People ashore were yelling at him to slow down as his wake was slamming them against the docks. Crazy, thoughtless power boaters out there.

   We were able to sail for a couple hours down the Bay River south of Hobucken. Nice to turn the noisy engine off.

Soon however, we had to make the turn up the Neuse River straight into the wind. Fortunately it was only about 15kts, which slows us down but we weren't bashing.  It was a 2 hr transit up the Neuse.

   There are 5 spots you can tie up at the Oriental free docks for 48hrs, but they are first come/first serve, so there's no guarantee of a spot. There  is a webcam that we checked and we could only see 1 boat tied up so we figured we would be okay.

   When we arrived it turned out there were 2 boats there leaving 3 open spots so we took the pole position (we're parked on the left in the photo) parked right in front of the Oriental coffee shop, "The Bean".

   Within the next 30 minutes, 2 more boats arrived taking the last 2 spots. We got here just in time. 

   First stop in Oriental was the New Village Brewery, located in an old house on the main drive.

   Had good hazy IPA for Mark and chocolate stout for Sue.

      Early Friday morning and just completed walking the dog and now sitting on the porch of "The Bean" having a morning coffee. 

   We'll do a couple walks today taking advantage of the great weather. A bit chilly in the mornings but about 70 during the day.

   We were surprised when Jim and Laurie from Kismet showed up to visit us in Oriental. We made a beeline for the New Village Brewery and spent a couple hours chatting over some beers.

   Walking the dog again, Sat morning. We'll be off for the last leg this trip to New Bern in a couple hours. 

   

Dowry Creek, Belhaven, NC 27-30 Oct

 

   We are stopping at Dowry Creek Marina because the weather is supposed to be windy and rainy for the next couple days.

   We really like this marina now that they have a good restaurant with craft beers and great prices on food and beer. 

   When we arrived and pulled into our assigned slip we were surprised to sea an Island Packet 350 parked next to us. It turned out to be our friends Laurie and Jim that we have met several times throughout our cruising since 2005. They have lived onboard their boat for the last 17 years and, cruise up and down the East Coast. They are on their way from Maine to Florida.

   Happy hour at the restaurant. We had beer and hors d'oeuvres two nights in a row and lots of great reminiscences from the past 20yrs of sailing our Island Packets. 

   It rained pretty steady for the next 3 days. It was great to be plugged into shore power so we had heat and the dehumidifier effect of our heat pump. 

    We could have anchored out for the 3 days but the 100% humidity and taking Rivah to the bow in the rain to do her business would have been quite uncomfortable. 

   As it was, it rained almost every time we took her for a walk, 3 times a day.

   Jim and Laurie departed after 2 days to take advantage of the favorable winds for sailing, despite the rain. We decided to stay another day for the rain to stop even though we would have to motor most of the way to Oriental.

   It rained for most all the day and night and we were glad to be tucked into our slip and plugged into power for heat.

   Thursday morning and the rain has stopped (except for an occasional short shower). We are underway for Oriental.

   The wind, which made Jim and Laurie's departure a white knuckle event, has died down and we were able to easily back and maneuver out of the slip (which was very constricted) and be on our way.

   Off for Oriental.

Transit to Dowry Creek, Belhaven, NC 26-27 Oct

 

   Classic Albemarle conditions and erroneous weather forecast. It was supposed to be a motoring trip down the Sound to the Alligator River into 5kt headwinds and smooth seas.

   Instead it was rocking and rolling into 15-20kts of wind off the port bow, with 2-3ft steep waves, typical of the shallow Sound. Fortunately, the waves were coming from a 60deg angle so we could cut through without being slammed on the bow and stopped dead. 

   Still, 5hrs of uncomfortable motor sailing.

   Eventually, we were able to make the 90deg turn into the Alligator River and all was right with the world. Now it was downwind sailing with 15kts aft of the beam. We secured the engine and had a great sail down the river for the next 4 hrs. 

   There's not much to see along this section of the ICW. It is 85miles across the Albemarle, down the Alligator River then through the Alligator-Pungo Canal before you get to Belhaven. 

   The farthest we can transit with daylight this time of year is about 60 miles, so we have to break up the trip into 2 days.

   We spent the night anchored just before entering the Canal - basically in the middle of nowhere. Not even cell phone coverage.

   Another pretty sunset. We are back on the ICW and with all the boats heading south for the winter. There were 5 other boats anchored alongside us and another 6 anchored at the next anchorage spot down near where the sun is setting. Back to the maddening crowds.