White puffy cumulus clouds fill a blue sky as we enter into Nassau Harbor past the cruise ships and under the far bridge to our marina for customs check in. We're finally here after a trying crossing following last month's rough and cold transit down the East Coast in winter.
As I write this, reggae music plays in the night from some hotspot while the wind moans through the rigging and wind generators spin up and whine in the gusts. It was not the most pleasant Gulf Stream crossing we've had.
The heavy thunder clouds hanging over the Gulf Stream as we left Key Biscayne past the Cape Florida lighthouse we harbingers of drenching showers to come. But first, we had to bash across the Gulf Stream straight into a 15kt breeze on the nose (means 21kts when added to our forward speed). The unforcasted easterly winds on the nose (supposed to have 10kts on the beam from the south) kicked up 2-4ft wind driven waves which combined with a dying (but not fast enough) 2-4ft northerly swell into the Gulf Stream creating confused, sharp faced waves, peaks, valleys and holes. Salt spray went everywhere and covered everything as we bashed our way for 10hours across the Gulf Stream.
Smiles and excitement soon transformed to nausea and weariness as the 33hr transit dragged on. These were exactly the conditions cruisers try to avoid, but the wind forecast turned out to be completely wrong and it was too late to turn back.
We arrived at St Issac's light on the Bahamas Bank just before dark after the 10hr bashing across the Gulf Stream. At this light we make a 40deg turn to the southeast down the bank to the Northwest Passage Channel. Unfortunately, the easterly winds had now shifted to the southeast (forecasted to be south shifting to southwest - perfect sailing winds) so again we were motoring directly into the winds. At least the seas were down now and the northerly swell was gone. The conditions were not uncomfortable - until the rains came in the early morning hours. First was a steady 30 minute shower with light winds that got everything and everyone in the cockpit wet (no, we didnt have Sue's great enclosure in place and regretted it.) But then came the classic tropical downpour with winds to 37+knots, lots of lightning and blowing rain that got into every nook and cranny. Fortunately we were prepared sailwise with very limited canvas flying so there was no fear of damaging the boat. But now we were totally wet, cold, tired and miserable. Fortunately we did not have the enclosure up as the fierce winds could have shredded it.
As dawn broke, however, with its blue skies, warm sunshine and light winds/waves, yesterday's miseries were gradually replaced with the realization we were through the ordeal and in the Bahamas.
We had a very pleasant 10hr motor from Northwest Passage Channel down to Nassau in the warm, rejuvenating sunshine.
A we passed by the Nassau Harbor lighthouse with Paradise Island resort buildings in the distance, the anticipation of snorkling, spear fishing, lobsters, snappers and conch for dinner had edged out the memories of rough, wet and cold storms/winds/squalls off Charleston and the Bahama Bank enroute.
After a quick pit stop for customs, hot shower and boat housekeeping, we'll be off for the Exumas on Monday. Watch out lobsters, here we come!
