New Bern 1 Nov

 

   Heading out from Oriental for New Bern on a crisp Saturday morning. Except for the 3 days of rain we spent at Dowry Creek, we have had great weather the whole trip with mostly blue skies.

   We have a 4 hour trip today up the Neuse River to New Bern.

   A nice surprise, we were able to sail for an hour and a half up the river as the winds were initially from the northwest letting us secure the engine for awhile.

   But eventually we had to follow the river and turn to the northwest into the wind and it was back to motoring. Fortunately the wind was only about 8-10kts and seas fairly calm so a comfortable drive.

   Just after 1pm and we are passing through the New Bern bridge just outside the marina. This is similar to Elizabeth City where there is a small bascule bridge on a busy highway that lies just outside the town and marinas.

   Tides Inn tucked into her new temporary home for the next two months. She will stay at New Bern until we head for Florida on 1 Jan 2026.

   After being delayed 3 weeks last year heading south for 3 snow storms and freezing weather, we decided to get the boat further south in October this year. From New Bern we will only have a one day transit to the warmer coastal waters of North Carolina that are still warmed by the Gulf Stream in January. 

Oriental, NC 30-31 Oct

 

  We departed Dowry Creek at sunrise before any wind could come up. We only had just over one boat length of maneuvering room behind us so we didn't want any wind making the departure any more challenging.

  There was very little wind and we were able to spin the boat within its length and make our way out of the marina.

   On to Oriental.

   Saw this guy just north of Hobucken. Sitting pretty low in the water, waves were breaking over the bow. That's about all the gravel he can carry.

   Passing by Mayo Seafood in Hobucken. We often stay overnight here when it is cold and we need to plug into shore power for heat. Today we are proceeding on to Oriental.

  Surprisingly, some idiot in a 60ft sport fisher boat passed us between us and the docks. People ashore were yelling at him to slow down as his wake was slamming them against the docks. Crazy, thoughtless power boaters out there.

   We were able to sail for a couple hours down the Bay River south of Hobucken. Nice to turn the noisy engine off.

Soon however, we had to make the turn up the Neuse River straight into the wind. Fortunately it was only about 15kts, which slows us down but we weren't bashing.  It was a 2 hr transit up the Neuse.

   There are 5 spots you can tie up at the Oriental free docks for 48hrs, but they are first come/first serve, so there's no guarantee of a spot. There  is a webcam that we checked and we could only see 1 boat tied up so we figured we would be okay.

   When we arrived it turned out there were 2 boats there leaving 3 open spots so we took the pole position (we're parked on the left in the photo) parked right in front of the Oriental coffee shop, "The Bean".

   Within the next 30 minutes, 2 more boats arrived taking the last 2 spots. We got here just in time. 

   First stop in Oriental was the New Village Brewery, located in an old house on the main drive.

   Had good hazy IPA for Mark and chocolate stout for Sue.

      Early Friday morning and just completed walking the dog and now sitting on the porch of "The Bean" having a morning coffee. 

   We'll do a couple walks today taking advantage of the great weather. A bit chilly in the mornings but about 70 during the day.

   We were surprised when Jim and Laurie from Kismet showed up to visit us in Oriental. We made a beeline for the New Village Brewery and spent a couple hours chatting over some beers.

   Walking the dog again, Sat morning. We'll be off for the last leg this trip to New Bern in a couple hours. 

   

Dowry Creek, Belhaven, NC 27-30 Oct

 

   We are stopping at Dowry Creek Marina because the weather is supposed to be windy and rainy for the next couple days.

   We really like this marina now that they have a good restaurant with craft beers and great prices on food and beer. 

   When we arrived and pulled into our assigned slip we were surprised to sea an Island Packet 350 parked next to us. It turned out to be our friends Laurie and Jim that we have met several times throughout our cruising since 2005. They have lived onboard their boat for the last 17 years and, cruise up and down the East Coast. They are on their way from Maine to Florida.

   Happy hour at the restaurant. We had beer and hors d'oeuvres two nights in a row and lots of great reminiscences from the past 20yrs of sailing our Island Packets. 

   It rained pretty steady for the next 3 days. It was great to be plugged into shore power so we had heat and the dehumidifier effect of our heat pump. 

    We could have anchored out for the 3 days but the 100% humidity and taking Rivah to the bow in the rain to do her business would have been quite uncomfortable. 

   As it was, it rained almost every time we took her for a walk, 3 times a day.

   Jim and Laurie departed after 2 days to take advantage of the favorable winds for sailing, despite the rain. We decided to stay another day for the rain to stop even though we would have to motor most of the way to Oriental.

   It rained for most all the day and night and we were glad to be tucked into our slip and plugged into power for heat.

   Thursday morning and the rain has stopped (except for an occasional short shower). We are underway for Oriental.

   The wind, which made Jim and Laurie's departure a white knuckle event, has died down and we were able to easily back and maneuver out of the slip (which was very constricted) and be on our way.

   Off for Oriental.

Transit to Dowry Creek, Belhaven, NC 26-27 Oct

 

   Classic Albemarle conditions and erroneous weather forecast. It was supposed to be a motoring trip down the Sound to the Alligator River into 5kt headwinds and smooth seas.

   Instead it was rocking and rolling into 15-20kts of wind off the port bow, with 2-3ft steep waves, typical of the shallow Sound. Fortunately, the waves were coming from a 60deg angle so we could cut through without being slammed on the bow and stopped dead. 

   Still, 5hrs of uncomfortable motor sailing.

   Eventually, we were able to make the 90deg turn into the Alligator River and all was right with the world. Now it was downwind sailing with 15kts aft of the beam. We secured the engine and had a great sail down the river for the next 4 hrs. 

   There's not much to see along this section of the ICW. It is 85miles across the Albemarle, down the Alligator River then through the Alligator-Pungo Canal before you get to Belhaven. 

   The farthest we can transit with daylight this time of year is about 60 miles, so we have to break up the trip into 2 days.

   We spent the night anchored just before entering the Canal - basically in the middle of nowhere. Not even cell phone coverage.

   Another pretty sunset. We are back on the ICW and with all the boats heading south for the winter. There were 5 other boats anchored alongside us and another 6 anchored at the next anchorage spot down near where the sun is setting. Back to the maddening crowds. 

Edenton, NC 24-25 Oct

   We were able to put the sails out but in the light winds it was still a motor-sail up the Albemarle Sound to Edenton. Its a long 9hr trip up the sound so we were glad for the light winds and smooth seas. The Albemarle can be very uncomfortable as we were to experience in our trip back down.

   Tied up to the city docks in Edenton. They have the same policy of 48hrs free dockage in exchange for spending money in town. No brewery convenient here but several coffee shops and restaurants. 

   Great weather is still with us. The Roanoke River lighthouse was home to a local tugboat captain for many years after being decommissioned as a light house. It was moved to Edenton a few years ago and is now a museum at the waterfront. 

   We took the tour. Sue still wants to live in a lighthouse. 

   Not very busy here in Edenton either even on the weekend. The other two boats with us were up from the Albemarle Plantation marina about couple hours away.  Its a long way up the Sound (6hrs) from the ICW path across the Albemarle, but more boaters should make the trek. Edenton is a very pretty town with some good sights.

 

   Check out this ice cream cone. That's "one" scoop of ice cream in a waffle cone for $2.50 at the local drugstore in town. Good thing I don't live here, I would be here every day.

   I had asked for two scoops but the clerk put the one (large) scoop in and asked if I was sure I wanted a second. Sue and I agreed one scoop was enough.

   A bit of Edenton history - these cannons are the actual ones purchased in 1778 from France to protect North Carolina and Virginia ports. They were "spiked" by Union naval forces in 1862 to prevent their use against the northern forces during the Civil War. Now on display reflecting the importance of Edenton as a major port during the 17/18/19th centuries. 

   After a nice two day visit with perfect weather it was time to depart and head back down the Albemarle along our trek to New Bern.

Elizabeth City 20-23 Oct

 

   Heading down the Dismal Swamp Canal towards South Mills Lock. Have to watch out for overhanging trees along this section. 

   Another beautiful day with blue skies, after a quiet night at the Visitor Center.

   There are objects to avoid in the canal. Just north of the lock was a large patch of grass floating in the middle of the canal. Just enough room for us to sneak by the side. 

   We made it past the grass island but, that wasn't the end of the ordeal. We had to wait at the lock for the northbound traffic to enter, lift and exit the lock. When the lock filled, it created a current in the canal which brought the floating island down current right into us, while we had to hold our position.  Sucked up a little grass into our engine cooling water but, the filter took care of it.

   Into the lock finally. All good. Down 8 feet, then into the Pasquotank River enroute Elizabeth City.

   The Pasquotank is one of the prettiest sections of the IntraCoastal Waterway, along with the Waccamaw River in South Carolina. 

   Patches of duckweed plants along the shoreline but a clear path down the middle.  The trees are already beginning to drop their leaves in October. It will be more vibrant green in the Spring when we return.

   We were lucky to find an empty spot to park at the MidAtlantic Christian University dock. They provide free dockage for 48hrs for boaters spending money at the Elizabeth City businesses.  We will be visiting the coffee shops, brewery and restaurants while visiting friends here. One of our favorite stops.

   Sue and Carol, our friend since our days as neighbors in Guam, 1976. Amazing, friends for going on 50 years.

   Good live music and beer at the Pine Porch brewery. 

   Thursday night was Open Mic at the Seven Sounds Brewery and Carol's son-in-law, Mike, invited me to play along with him. It was a fun time but my fingertips were soon growing blisters after not playing bass guitar since joining the Navy in 1974. Need to do some more playing to get those fingers toughened up. 

   Seven Sounds Brewery is a great spot right on the Elizabeth City harbor. 

 

  

   We ended up staying in Elizabeth City for 4 days helping Carol prepare for a craft fair.  Sue had time to make some sour dough cinnamon rolls for us. 

   We had beautiful weather the whole visit with sunrises into blue skies each day. Looking across the river from our dock spot.

   After 4 days (thanks to the dockmaster that let us extend our stay - it was surprisingly not very busy, lots and lots of boats traveling down the Virginia Cut route instead of Elizabeth City - a poor choice in our opinion - except it was great for us without the crowds),  it was time to get underway for our next North Carolina town to visit. 

   Another great weather day, not much wind for sailing, but smooth waters for motoring west to Edenton.

Dismal Swamp Canal - NC Visitor Center - 19 Oct

 

   Another very early start, anchor up and underway before 7am.  We have to get through the Gilmerton auto bridge and Railroad bridge #7 and then down the river to the Deep Creek Lock before 0830. If there is no delay its a 1.25hr trip.

   Had a very quiet night off Portsmouth/Norfolk. The Carnaval cruise ship departed just after midnight. Guess all the guests are onboard by then.

   Through all the bridges with no delays. Turned out the Railroad #7 bridge closed about 10 minutes after we passed through. That would have stopped us from making the 0830 lock opening.  All good so far this trip.  

(Of note, the photo is Railroad Bridge #5 for those interested). #7 is around the bend next to the Gilmerton auto bridge. No pictures of it as that is a congested area where we are doing circles waiting for the opening. 

   In the lock and ready to ride up 8ft. There were 4 boats in the lock for this opening. We heard Great Bridge, the alternate route to the Dismal Canal route, is averaging 25-30 boats per opening as they are on restricted opening hours. Glad we are over here. We aren't advertising it but more boaters should take this route - as long as they have a protected prop. Plenty of logs along this route.

   The Dismal Swamp route is definitely a prettier transit than the Virginia Cut but, there are shallow spots, overhanging trees and, sunken and floating logs to avoid.

   We saw two medium size floating tree trunks and had one very minor bump along the route.

   North Carolina has a very nice Visitor Center along Route 17 and the Dismal Swamp Canal route. There is a very interesting Nature Center here at the State Park.

   Key feature for us is the easy access to green grass where Rivah can do her business. Otherwise she has to go on the bow on her potty rug.

   Tides Inn tied up at the Visitor Center. There is room for 3 boats on the dock, then others will start rafting up to the moored boats. We got here early after passing though the first lock opening of the day so we get an inside berth which is great for Rivah to hop on and off the boat. Others arriving later in the day will have to raft up outboard of us. 

  A movable pedestrian bridge at the Visitor Center allows you to walk over to the State Park where the Nature Center and multiple walking trails are. The Nature Center is pretty interesting place with lots of info on flora/fauna of North Carolina and the Dismal Swamp.

      Tides Inn tucked in at the end of the dock. Arriving boats are starting to raft up and by the end of the day we had two boats outboard of us. 

   We need to leave at 0800 tomorrow so all 3 of us will be getting underway early in the morning. 

   Had great weather today, the wind picked up to 15kts and higher in the afternoon but down to near zero after dark. Rain is coming through tonight at midnight with wind and gusty conditions but, back to light winds by morning. 

   We're off to Elizabeth City in the morning.