Transit to Dowry Creek, Belhaven, NC 26-27 Oct

 

   Classic Albemarle conditions and erroneous weather forecast. It was supposed to be a motoring trip down the Sound to the Alligator River into 5kt headwinds and smooth seas.

   Instead it was rocking and rolling into 15-20kts of wind off the port bow, with 2-3ft steep waves, typical of the shallow Sound. Fortunately, the waves were coming from a 60deg angle so we could cut through without being slammed on the bow and stopped dead. 

   Still, 5hrs of uncomfortable motor sailing.

   Eventually, we were able to make the 90deg turn into the Alligator River and all was right with the world. Now it was downwind sailing with 15kts aft of the beam. We secured the engine and had a great sail down the river for the next 4 hrs. 

   There's not much to see along this section of the ICW. It is 85miles across the Albemarle, down the Alligator River then through the Alligator-Pungo Canal before you get to Belhaven. 

   The farthest we can transit with daylight this time of year is about 60 miles, so we have to break up the trip into 2 days.

   We spend the night anchored just before entering the Canal - basically in the middle of nowhere.

   Another pretty sunset. We are back on the ICW and with all the boats heading south for the winter. There were 5 other boats anchored alongside us and another 6 anchored at the next anchorage spot down near where the sun is setting. Back to the maddening crowds. 

Edenton, NC 24-25 Oct

   We were able to put the sails out but in the light winds it was still a motor-sail up the Albemarle Sound to Edenton. Its a long 9hr trip up the sound so we were glad for the light winds and smooth seas. The Albemarle can be very uncomfortable as we were to experience in our trip back down.

   Tied up to the city docks in Edenton. They have the same policy of 48hrs free dockage in exchange for spending money in town. No brewery convenient here but several coffee shops and restaurants. 

   Great weather is still with us. The Roanoke River lighthouse was home to a local tugboat captain for many years after being decommissioned as a light house. It was moved to Edenton a few years ago and is now a museum at the waterfront. 

   We took the tour. Sue still wants to live in a lighthouse. 

   Not very busy here in Edenton either even on the weekend. The other two boats with us were up from the Albemarle Plantation marina about couple hours away.  Its a long way up the Sound (6hrs) from the ICW path across the Albemarle, but more boaters should make the trek. Edenton is a very pretty town with some good sights.

 

   Check out this ice cream cone. That's "one" scoop of ice cream in a waffle cone for $2.50 at the local drugstore in town. Good thing I don't live here, I would be here every day.

   I had asked for two scoops but the clerk put the one (large) scoop in and asked if I was sure I wanted a second. Sue and I agreed one scoop was enough.

   A bit of Edenton history - these cannons are the actual ones purchased in 1778 from France to protect North Carolina and Virginia ports. They were "spiked" by Union naval forces in 1862 to prevent their use against the northern forces during the Civil War. Now on display reflecting the importance of Edenton as a major port during the 17/18/19th centuries. 

   After a nice two day visit with perfect weather it was time to depart and head back down the Albemarle along our trek to New Bern.

Elizabeth City 20-23 Oct

 

   Heading down the Dismal Swamp Canal towards South Mills Lock. Have to watch out for overhanging trees along this section. 

   Another beautiful day with blue skies, after a quiet night at the Visitor Center.

   There are objects to avoid in the canal. Just north of the lock was a large patch of grass floating in the middle of the canal. Just enough room for us to sneak by the side. 

   We made it past the grass island but, that wasn't the end of the ordeal. We had to wait at the lock for the northbound traffic to enter, lift and exit the lock. When the lock filled, it created a current in the canal which brought the floating island down current right into us, while we had to hold our position.  Sucked up a little grass into our engine cooling water but, the filter took care of it.

   Into the lock finally. All good. Down 8 feet, then into the Pasquotank River enroute Elizabeth City.

   The Pasquotank is one of the prettiest sections of the IntraCoastal Waterway, along with the Waccamaw River in South Carolina. 

   Patches of duckweed plants along the shoreline but a clear path down the middle.  The trees are already beginning to drop their leaves in October. It will be more vibrant green in the Spring when we return.

   We were lucky to find an empty spot to park at the MidAtlantic Christian University dock. They provide free dockage for 48hrs for boaters spending money at the Elizabeth City businesses.  We will be visiting the coffee shops, brewery and restaurants while visiting friends here. One of our favorite stops.

   Sue and Carol, our friend since our days as neighbors in Guam, 1976. Amazing, friends for going on 50 years.

   Good live music and beer at the Pine Porch brewery. 

   Thursday night was Open Mic at the Seven Sounds Brewery and Carol's son-in-law, Mike, invited me to play along with him. It was a fun time but my fingertips were soon growing blisters after not playing bass guitar since joining the Navy in 1974. Need to do some more playing to get those fingers toughened up. 

   Seven Sounds Brewery is a great spot right on the Elizabeth City harbor. 

 

  

   We ended up staying in Elizabeth City for 4 days helping Carol prepare for a craft fair.  Sue had time to make some sour dough cinnamon rolls for us. 

   We had beautiful weather the whole visit with sunrises into blue skies each day. Looking across the river from our dock spot.

   After 4 days (thanks to the dockmaster that let us extend our stay - it was surprisingly not very busy, lots and lots of boats traveling down the Virginia Cut route instead of Elizabeth City - a poor choice in our opinion - except it was great for us without the crowds),  it was time to get underway for our next North Carolina town to visit. 

   Another great weather day, not much wind for sailing, but smooth waters for motoring west to Edenton.

Dismal Swamp Canal - NC Visitor Center - 19 Oct

 

   Another very early start, anchor up and underway before 7am.  We have to get through the Gilmerton auto bridge and Railroad bridge #7 and then down the river to the Deep Creek Lock before 0830. If there is no delay its a 1.25hr trip.

   Had a very quiet night off Portsmouth/Norfolk. The Carnaval cruise ship departed just after midnight. Guess all the guests are onboard by then.

   Through all the bridges with no delays. Turned out the Railroad #7 bridge closed about 10 minutes after we passed through. That would have stopped us from making the 0830 lock opening.  All good so far this trip.  

(Of note, the photo is Railroad Bridge #5 for those interested). #7 is around the bend next to the Gilmerton auto bridge. No pictures of it as that is a congested area where we are doing circles waiting for the opening. 

   In the lock and ready to ride up 8ft. There were 4 boats in the lock for this opening. We heard Great Bridge, the alternate route to the Dismal Canal route, is averaging 25-30 boats per opening as they are on restricted opening hours. Glad we are over here. We aren't advertising it but more boaters should take this route - as long as they have a protected prop. Plenty of logs along this route.

   The Dismal Swamp route is definitely a prettier transit than the Virginia Cut but, there are shallow spots, overhanging trees and, sunken and floating logs to avoid.

   We saw two medium size floating tree trunks and had one very minor bump along the route.

   North Carolina has a very nice Visitor Center along Route 17 and the Dismal Swamp Canal route. There is a very interesting Nature Center here at the State Park.

   Key feature for us is the easy access to green grass where Rivah can do her business. Otherwise she has to go on the bow on her potty rug.

   Tides Inn tied up at the Visitor Center. There is room for 3 boats on the dock, then others will start rafting up to the moored boats. We got here early after passing though the first lock opening of the day so we get an inside berth which is great for Rivah to hop on and off the boat. Others arriving later in the day will have to raft up outboard of us. 

  A movable pedestrian bridge at the Visitor Center allows you to walk over to the State Park where the Nature Center and multiple walking trails are. The Nature Center is pretty interesting place with lots of info on flora/fauna of North Carolina and the Dismal Swamp.

      Tides Inn tucked in at the end of the dock. Arriving boats are starting to raft up and by the end of the day we had two boats outboard of us. 

   We need to leave at 0800 tomorrow so all 3 of us will be getting underway early in the morning. 

   Had great weather today, the wind picked up to 15kts and higher in the afternoon but down to near zero after dark. Rain is coming through tonight at midnight with wind and gusty conditions but, back to light winds by morning. 

   We're off to Elizabeth City in the morning.

Underway for Florida 2025/26 Cruise - Oct 18

 

   

   Departure day is here and the weather is cooperating at least partly. The winds will be light and on the nose most of the way so we will be motoring, but that's ok.

    We are heading to the Dismal Swamp Canal to transit to Elizabeth City, NC. But, the last lock opening is at 1530 which is a race for us to get there and if we are delayed at the opening Gilmerton Bridge, which is frequent, we can't make it to the lock. So the plan is to anchor in Norfolk and head to the canal tomorrow.

   We're off and heading south. Its very nice to depart with no wind as we have to take all the dock lines off and take them with us to use in New Bern and later in Florida. With no wind, the boat doesn't get pinned to the dock after the lines are removed. It was an easy departure. 

   A brisk 52 degrees but sunny and the boat cockpit will warm up with the sun shining.

   Three hours later we are passing the Norfolk Naval Base piers. Here's Harry Truman, CVN-75. The HW Bush, CVN-77 was also in port.

   Marine traffic was heavier than we are used to with it being the middle of October. We've been departing in January the last 7 years when there is almost no traffic.  Lots of other cruisers heading south.

   At Hospital Point anchorage off Portsmouth. The anchorage is pretty full with 15 boats here and still only 3pm. There were still several open spots to fit into.

   The winds are light today and tonight so there should be no problem with boats dragging their anchors.

   In addition to the naval, merchant and private boat traffic, the Carnaval cruise boat arrived just a few moments after we anchored.  Busy day.

   This is officially mile marker Zero of the Intra-Coastal Waterway here at Norfolk. Tomorrow we will work our way down through the bridges, locks and canal to Elizabeth City which is mile 50. Will take most of the day. 

   Time for dinner now. Was a great day with no problems. Good start for the trip.

   

Last bit of Maintenance

 

   Our last maintenance item is to mount a new wind instrument at the top of the mast. Our 23yr old sensor is stuck and won't rotate to give wind direction. 

   Sue goes up the mast for any mast repairs as she doesn't want to be hoisting me.

   One obstacle in going up the mast is that the hoisting halyard and the safety halyard are on different front/back of the mast which means when you pass the spreaders, you have to disconnect the safety line, run it over the spreader, then reattach.

   Up at the top and getting to work. Sue has to remove the old sensor device and insert the new one. A fairly easy job if all goes according to plan, which is rarely the case.

   New sensor in place. 

   We had a momentary scare as the new sensor was not passing data to the instrument at the helm. We reinstalled the old sensor and learned that we had to recycle the power. Put the new sensor in place and recycled power and all is working perfectly.

   Time for some sightseeing and photos as long as you are 55feet up with the birds.  Looking to the west up Chisman Creek.

   The view to the east down the creek towards the Chesapeake Bay.

 

   Other things to check while up the mast. Our anchor (white) and tricolor (red on port side) light is in good condition.  The windex to the right is working fine.

   Long ways down there to the deck. In the old square rigger sailing days the topmen went up 3 times higher than this.

  All maintenance completed. Now its time to provision the boat. This Fall, we are only going for two weeks to New Bern, NC, so not as onerous as 3 months to the Bahamas with no grocery stores. 

   The Island Packet has lots of room to store things but we also have to store spare parts, emergency flares and sextant, emergency bilge pumps, tools, electrical parts, fiberglass repair, 4 types of oil, filters, etc. And one compartment for the spinnaker. Every compartment is full of something.

Out of the boatyard.

 

   All work is done and its time to launch. 

   I touched up the boot stripe and the yard painted the bottom. 

   Travel lift in place to raise the boat. The one issue with being pulled at Wormley Creek - their lift is fairly small and you see that I have to lean the wind generator pole over so the travel lift crossbar can clear the wind generator.  The positioning is pretty exact to get the lift and straps in the right position with the cross bar between the backstays and pole and over the radar. It just fits with inches to spare. 

   Transiting down to the launch basin. 

   Plenty of water in the basin today with extra high tides and northerly winds. They can't launch the boat if it is an unusually low tide. 

   Heading down into the water. All worked out well for launching today with Sue off from work and the weather sunny and breezy. Great day for a sail back to our marina with a clean bottom. 

   We had a brisk sail back to Dare Marina with 15-20kt northerly winds. The zig-zag path was our transit up to Wormley Creek with extensive tacking into the northeast wind last week. The straight line is our path back with a north wind. We had to make one jibe in the Poquoson River compared to 12+ tacks on the way up.

   Back home at or slip at Dare Marina. 

   We got back to the marina just in time to ride out a Nor'easter storm with some flooding. Water levels a couple feet above normal. Our dock was fine.